Retinol has earned a reputation as a gold standard in skincare, praised for everything from stimulating collagen production to reducing the appearance of fine lines and fading dark spots. As a powerful ingredient and a derivative of vitamin A, it's often touted as a must-have in your skincare routine. But here’s the truth: retinol isn’t for everyone.
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Despite its many benefits, retinol use comes with potential side effects—and depending on your skin type, skin health, or current skincare products, using it could do more harm than good. So, let’s break it down. Here’s an in depth write up of who should think twice before jumping on the retinol train.
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1. If Your Skin Barrier Is Compromised, Retinol Is Not a Good Idea
Before introducing retinol serum or any potent ingredients into your skincare routine, your skin barrier needs to be in good shape. The skin barrier acts like your body’s first line of defense—keeping moisture in and irritants out.
If you're experiencing skin irritation, flakiness, redness, or stinging, your barrier may already be compromised. Adding retinol at this point can increase skin’s sensitivity and lead to more irritation. Instead, focus on repairing your barrier with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and essential oils. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t remodel a house with a broken foundation. Rebuild first, then introduce active ingredients.
2. Pregnant or Breastfeeding? Ask Your Doctor
Retinol and its more intense cousin, retinoic acid, are considered developmental toxicants, meaning they can pose risks during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Back in the day, healthcare providers consistently advised avoiding both prescription retinoids and over-the-counter retinol products during this time.Â
However, in recent years, the healthcare providers of several of my pregnant clients have approved them to use our retinol (Daily A). It seems more and more practitioners are beginning to approve the use of over-the-counter retinol products for daily use while pregnant or breastfeeding—especially when the formulation uses a gentler type of retinoid and is supported by a balanced skincare routine focused on skin health.
That said, this isn’t a one-size-fits-all situation. Always check with your healthcare provider first. If you're managing skin conditions like acne or uneven skin tone while pregnant, and you're not cleared to use retinol, you can opt for safer topical treatments like mandelic acid azelaic acid, vitamin C, or lactic acid. These can improve skin cell turnover and brighten the skin without the risks traditionally associated with retinol use.
3. Retinol May Not Be the Best Bet for Inflamed or Cystic Acne
This might sound surprising since retinol is often marketed as a topical acne treatment, but for those with inflamed or cystic acne, it can sometimes backfire. When the skin is already dealing with inflammation, the use of retinol can increase redness, dryness, and overall discomfort.
In these cases, less irritating ingredients like Mandelic Acid, salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide might be a better starting point. Once the inflammation is under control, you can introduce a type of retinoid slowly—usually starting with a lower concentration and applying it every third night to avoid flare-ups.
4. Teens Without Acne? Skip the Retinol
Teens who don’t have acne really don’t need to be using retinol—despite what social media trends might suggest. Young skin already has rapid skin cell turnover, collagen production, and natural vibrancy, so adding a strong active like retinol can actually do more harm than good.
However, if a teenager does have acne-prone skin, retinol can be helpful—but only with the guidance of a skincare professional like an esthetician or dermatologist. The type of retinoid used, the frequency of application, and the support of a balanced skincare routine are crucial to avoid over-drying and irritation.
Gentler options like mandelic acid, lactic acid, or vitamin C are great starting points for most teens, especially when the goal is to manage breakouts, dark spots, or uneven skin tone.
5. If You’re Not Using Daily Sunscreen, Retinol Is a No-Go
One of the biggest risks of retinol use is increased sensitivity to UV rays. If you’re not diligent about sun protection—yes, even on cloudy days—using retinol can lead to more sun damage, brown spots, and worsening of the signs of aging.
This is because retinol makes your skin more vulnerable to environmental aggressors. So if consistent sunscreen use isn’t part of your daily skincare routine, retinol treatments aren’t your best skincare ingredients just yet.
6. Recently Had a Skin Procedure? Hold Off on Retinol
After procedures like a Mid to deep chemical peel, microneedling, or laser treatments, your skin needs time to heal. During this recovery period, your skin is more sensitive, and introducing retinol too soon can slow down the healing process or lead to more intense reactions.
Stick with calming, barrier-repairing products like hyaluronic acid, peptides, and nourishing moisturizers for a couple of days—or even weeks—depending on the procedure.
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7. Your Routine Already Has a Retinol In It.Â
Know What You’re Using: Not All Retinols Are Labeled Clearly
One of the most common issues I see in my clinic is clients unknowingly doubling up on retinol. They might be using a prescription retinoid—like tretinoin or adapalene—and also applying an over-the-counter (OTC) retinol serum, not realizing both are forms of vitamin A.
Here’s the thing: retinoids come in many forms. You’ll see names like retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde, retinol, and retinoic acid on labels. Each has a different strength, absorption rate, and potential for skin irritation, but they all contribute to your skin’s total retinoid load.
Why does this matter? Too much retinol can cause skin barrier disruption, peeling, redness, and chronic irritation. And often, clients don’t even realize what’s causing the problem because the product names or packaging don’t make it clear that they’re using multiple retinoids.
So here’s what to do:
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Read ingredient lists carefully: Look for any mention of retinoids, including retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, and even “vitamin A derivatives.”
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Check product names and claims: Some OTC products market themselves as “anti-aging” or “for smoother skin” without clearly stating they contain retinoids.
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Bring your products to your skincare appointment: Your esthetician or dermatologist can help you assess what’s overlapping and guide you toward a more balanced routine.
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Stick with one retinoid at a time unless advised: Mixing a prescription with an OTC version often leads to overuse and irritation unless it's part of a professionally guided plan.
Understanding your products and the form of vitamin A they contain is essential for safe and effective retinol use. When in doubt, consult a skincare professional to help you decode your routine and adjust as needed for the best results.
If you’re using alpha hydroxy acid (like glycolic acid), salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or vitamin C in your routine, be mindful. Combining all these potent ingredients with retinol can overload the skin, leading to peeling, irritation, and compromised results.
In this case, it’s a good idea to simplify. Start by using a pea-sized amount of retinol just a few nights a week, alternating it with your other actives. This helps minimize irritation and allows you to monitor your skin’s response.
8. Some Skin Types Just Don’t Get Along with Retinol
If you have sensitive skin, atopic dermatitis, or rosacea, retinol might just not be the best option for you. And that’s okay. Popular belief says retinol is a must, but for some people, the risks outweigh the benefits of retinoids.
There are plenty of effective alternatives. like Mandelic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Niacinamide, vitamin C, and azelaic acid can all help improve uneven skin tone, boost collagen production, and support smoother skin—often with far less irritation.
How to Use Retinol the Right Way (If You’re Ready)
If none of the above apply to you, and you’re still interested in reaping the benefits of retinol, here’s how to start smart:
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Start slow:Â Use it once every third night and gradually increase frequency.
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Use a pea-sized amount: More product doesn’t mean better results.
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Avoid direct sunlight after application:Â Retinol breaks down in sunlight, and exposure can heighten irritation.
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Layer it properly:Â Apply after your skin is fully dry to reduce sensitivity, and consider layering over a moisturizer if your skin leans dry.
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Stick with lower concentrations at first:Â Counter beauty products often contain retinyl palmitate or other gentle forms of vitamin A. These are great for beginners.
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Watch for signs of overuse:Â Redness, peeling, burning, or stinging are signs you might need to cut back.
Final Thoughts: Retinol Isn’t a One-Size-Fits-All
Retinol can be transformative, but it's also a tricky ingredient. Understanding your skin type, your current skincare products, and your overall skin health is essential before introducing this powerful form of vitamin A into your life.
Don’t be swayed by social media or the popular belief that retinol is the ultimate fix. The best results come from a consistent use of what’s right for your skin—not what works for someone else. And when in doubt? Check with a board-certified dermatologist or a licensed esthetician (hi, that’s me!).
Whether you’re looking to tackle signs of aging, brown spots, acne, or skin texture, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. Retinol is just one tool in the toolbox—and sometimes, the best time to use it is never.
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About the Author:Â Carly is an Austin-based esthetician specializing in acne-prone skin and customized skincare solutions. She helps clients clear their skin using targeted topical treatments and non-prescription protocols. Follow her on Instagram for more expert skincare tips.
Sources:
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American Academy of Dermatology: Retinoids Overview
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National Library of Medicine: Retinoid Side Effects
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Harvard Health Blog: Retinoid Use and Skin Health
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Lauren Sharkey, U.K.-based journalist covering women’s issues and beauty
