How Overwashing Your Face Damages Your Skin Barrier

Let’s break down exactly what overwashing does to the skin’s barrier, why it matters, and how to build a skin care routine that keeps your skin calm, protected, and thriving.

The skin barrier, also called the stratum corneum, is the outermost layer of the skin. It’s often described as a "brick wall" made of dead skin cells (the bricks) and natural lipids, fatty acids, and natural moisturizing factors (the mortar) that hold it all together. This protective layer locks in hydration and keeps out bacteria, pollutants, and other external aggressors.

When it's working correctly, the barrier function of your skin keeps everything balanced. A healthy skin barrier equals healthy-looking skin—smooth, supple, and less prone to irritation or acne breakouts. But when we overwash, we start chipping away at that wall (AAD).

Overwashing can cause skin barrier damage, especially when using harsh cleansers, hot water, or over-exfoliating with chemical exfoliants like glycolic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid. Even overusing a foaming cleanser can have an adverse effect, particularly for sensitive skin or those with a compromised barrier.

Here's what really goes down:

1. Stripping Away Natural Oils Your skin needs a certain amount of natural oils to stay balanced. When you cleanse too often—especially with harsh products—you remove not only dirt and excess oil, but the good stuff too. This leaves your skin vulnerable to moisture loss and irritation.

2. Disrupting the Moisture Barrier Overwashing disrupts the moisture barrier, which can cause transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This basically means water evaporates from the skin faster than your body can replace it (Harvard Health).

3. Triggering Inflammation and Sensitivity A damaged skin barrier can lead to flaky skin, redness, and sensitivity. You might even develop what looks like an allergic reaction or eczema flare-up.

4. Making Acne Worse A lot of people believe acne comes from dirty skin and that washing multiple times a day will clear it. Not true. Acne is not caused by poor hygiene—it's primarily caused by hormonal changes, clogged pores, excess oil, and inflammation. Washing too much can strip the skin of its natural oils, prompting the skin to produce even more oil to compensate. This can lead to clogged pores and, ironically, more acne breakouts. If you’re dealing with acne-prone skin, less is more when it comes to washing (JCAD).

• Persistent dry skin or tightness
• Excess oiliness despite dryness (yep, both at the same time)
• Sudden sensitivity to products you’ve used for a long time
• Flaky skin or rough texture
• Redness and blotchiness
• Stinging or burning when applying skincare products

People with naturally sensitive skin, dry skin, or existing skin conditions like eczema, rosacea, or psoriasis are most vulnerable. However, even oily skin types aren’t immune.

In fact, people with acne-prone skin often fall into a cycle: break out, wash more, break out again, repeat. It's a vicious loop that a better skincare routine can help stop.

If your facial cleanser feels like it’s doing too much, it probably is. Here's how to pick a better one:

• Use a mild cleanser or soap-free cleanser tailored to your skin type.
• Avoid essential oils or harsh ingredients that can cause irritation.
• Consider a gentle cleanser with hydrating ingredients like Panthenol, or hyaluronic acid. Avoid shea butter if you are acne prone!
• Incorporate micellar water for a first cleanse or light refresh.
• For acne, don’t default to every strong acne treatment—look for a balanced approach with ingredients like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide used only when needed.

Hot water may feel relaxing, but it’s one of the fastest ways to mess with your skin’s barrier as it will dehydrate your skin. Use lukewarm water for your cleansing routine and rinse thoroughly. Cold water doesn’t necessarily “tighten pores,” but it can help calm inflammation if your barrier is already compromised.

To keep integrity of the skin barrier:

• Once or twice a day is plenty for most people.
• You don’t have to double cleanse in the morning
• After sweating or workouts, rinse with water or a mild face wash.
• Focus on your skin’s needs, not rigid rules.

If you think you've overwashed and you're dealing with a compromised skin barrier, here’s your plan:

Simplify Your Skin-Care Routine

Cut out actives like alpha hydroxy acids, vitamin C, and retinoids for a little time.

Stick to gentle, barrier-repairing products.

Use a Heavy Moisturizer

Look for one with ceramides, fatty acids, and hyaluronic acid.

Avoid Too Much Sun Exposure

UV damage weakens the integrity of your skin barrier even more. Wear sunscreen!

Stop Over-Exfoliating

Exfoliating too often with a chemical exfoliant or scrub wears away the outermost layer of the skin, leading to increased TEWL.

Give It Time

The healing process can take days to weeks depending on the severity of the damage. Consistency is key.

• Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated.

• A healthy diet with good fats (avocados, salmon, nuts) supports natural lipids.

• Boost blood flow with regular movement, even light exercise.

Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube are overflowing with skincare routines that include 10 steps,, and layering multiple active ingredients. While it's amazing to see people so invested in their skin, it’s also easy to go overboard.

As someone with years of experience treating acne-prone skin and navigating product overload, I can confidently say this: you do not need a complicated routine to have great skin.

In fact, sometimes the best way to protect your skin is by doing less.

Here’s the good news: the skin’s protective barrier is resilient. With the right products, a smart skin care routine, and some patience, most skin can bounce back from over-cleansing and other forms of skin barrier damage.

The integrity of your skin barrier is worth protecting—it's your skin’s frontline defense against the world. So take a step back, listen to your skin, and give it the love (and break) it deserves.

RECAP: Wash your face, but don’t overdo it. Use a mild cleanser, skip the hot water, and give your skin the chance to be its best self—with a little less effort.

Sometimes, the best skincare routine is the one that gives your skin a break.

Your barrier will thank you.